Compost Farming
Composting speeds the natural process whereby microorganisms break down complex organic matter into simple, nutritious topsoil. When this occurs on the forest floor, it's called mulching, but when people have a hand in the procedure, we call it composting. Composting requires water, air, and rotting material with a good nitrogen to carbon ratio.
Composting starts with the proper equipment. A container needs to be durable, with slots for air circulation, compartments for different ingredients, and a cover to keep out rain and snow. Some people like to mount their compost bin on an axle so they can rotate it and mix everything together. Containers should be kept on level ground away from sources of contamination, like pets or garbage.
Turning some trash into useful fertilizer requires careful sorting of all the ingredients. The ratios of certain materials, like grass clippings versus banana skins, need to be monitored to make sure the batch of compost decomposes well. Things that seem like they will disintegrate probably will, including vegetable peelings, seed hulls, fruit rinds, beans, wilted lettuce, etc. Avoid anything that seems like it would rot, like dairy, meat, or oil.
With a good supply of rich vegetable waste, compost still needs other additives for bacteria to turn rough materials into topsoil. For example, scraps from your kitchen and grass clippings have a lot of nitrogen. You'll also want some carbon to regulate the speed of decomposition, so add hay, bark, wood chips, or dry leaves.
The compost will radiate heat if it contains a good ratio of carbon to nitrogen while it cures. A subtle, emanating warmth means that worms, fungi, and bacteria are working hard. When the majority of decomposition has taken place and the compost is ready to be spread on a garden or lawn, the compost will feel cool.
Create ideal conditions for speedy composting by monitoring air and moisture levels. Too much dense vegetation will make compost compact. Microorganisms need air, too, and if they suffocate they are no longer creating precious material. Fluff it up with hay or dry leaves, add vents, or merely mix it with a shovel. There should be enough moisture such that the mixture looks damp, but no water drips from the bottom.
The resultant soil material from composting is called humus. It's a very valuable, nutritious kind of topsoil that replenishes the dirt. Humus is appropriate to spread over vegetable gardens, lawns, around trees, fields, and anywhere you want something to grow. Composted fertilizer makes up for nutrients lost due to crops, vivacious weeds, or other vegetation that sapped minerals and vitamins from the soil.
Home Composting
Home composters use a range of techniques, varying from extremely passive (throw everything in a pile and leave it for a year or two) to extremely active (monitor the temperature, turn the pile regularly, and adjust the ingredients over time). Some composters use mineral powders to absorb smells, although a well-maintained pile seldom has bad odors. It is usually located in the back garden.
Moisture and heat
An effective compost pile is about as damp as a well wrung-out sponge. This provides the moisture that all life requires. Microorganisms vary by their ideal temperature and the heat they generate as they digest. Mesophilic bacteria survive best at temperatures of 20 to 44 °C (70 to 120 °F). thermophilic (heat-surviving) bacteria grow optimally at around 55°C (130 °F), and can attain the fastest decomposition, since metabolic processes proceed more rapidly under higher temperatures.
Elevated temperature is also preferred since it causes the most rapid pathogen reduction, and is more destructive of weed seeds. To minimally achieve it, the heap should be about 1 m (3 ft) wide, 1 m (3 ft) tall, and as long as is practicable. This provides enough insulating mass to build up heat but also allows aeration. The center of the pile heats up the most.
If the pile does not heat up, common reasons include that:
• The heap is too wet, limiting the oxygen which bacteria require
• The heap is too dry for the bacteria to survive and reproduce
• There is insufficient protein (nitrogen-rich material)
The necessary material should be added, or the pile should be turned to aerate it and bring the outer layers inside and vice versa. You should add water at this time to help keep the pile damp. One guideline is to turn the pile when the high temperature has begun to drop, indicating that the food source for the fastest-acting bacteria (in the center of the pile) has been largely consumed. When turning the pile does not cause a temperature rise, it brings no further advantage. When all the material has turned into dark brown crumbly matter, it is ready to use.
source : wisegeek